By the end of the course, the student:
Has acquired an in-depth, quantitative understanding of wave statistics (including time series analysis), wave transformation, wave-induced and aeolian sand transport, and morphological evolution in wave-dominated coasts;
Can program assignments related to time series analysis, modelling and data-model comparison using Matlab or Python;
Can differentiate and recommend modelling approaches for waves and wave-driven morphodynamics;
Is able to critically read scientific literature and to position detailed research results in the broader picture of coastal research;
Can describe and motivate the choices in the management of the wave-dominated coasts (with a focus on the Dutch context), including dunes.
Content
Wind-generated waves are the main driving force for the evolution of the nearshore zone (water depths less than 10 m) on time scales of hours (storms) to decades. As waves approach the coast, they transform by altering, among other characteristics, shape, height, length, and orientation. This results in a wide variety of other processes, including alongshore currents and rip currents. Also, it leads to the transport of sand perpendicular to and along the coast. As a consequence, the morphology of the nearshore zone changes continuously as the offshore wave conditions change with time and when mankind intervenes with coastal processes, for example, by artificially placing sand to enhance coastal safety. This makes the nearshore zone one of the most dynamic and complicated regions within the oceanic domain.
Main topics of the course include:
cross-shore transformation of wind-generated waves, and the resulting currents;
sand transport and morphological evolution;
modelling of waves, currents, and sand transport;
at a range of time scales (hours - decades) and in natural and humanly altered wave-dominated coastal settings. The later setting provides the student with insight into issues related to present-day coastal zone management.
